Short clips
Trailers to full length videos and stand-alone quick tips; everything we make that is under 60 seconds
How Much Slack Is Actually Safe for Climbing?
While it is helpful to have rules-of-thumb about many things in climbing, like slack management when belaying, the realities are usually more complex. From moment to moment on a climb, the risk that is most significant can change. Constantly asking ourselves what is the most significant risk is a key for not only belaying, but climbing safely, overall.
One Way I NEVER Use a Quick Link on a Climb
As we've discussed in a previous short, I do carry a quick link on my bail carabiner for a number of reasons, but to use it to bail from a sport climb isn't one of them. Here's why.
Avoid This Mistake Climbers Make with Two Rope Rappels
When we are rappelling off of two ropes, we need to identify the pull strand and the rappel strand at each transition and then remember that designation when we reach the next rappel station. This simple trick can help us keep the full strand identified, even if we should forget.
Is the Quick Link on My Climbing Rack Actually a Multi-Tool?
I like the cheap price and small aperture opening of a quick link to help create rappel anchors for alpine route descents. But the reasons I started carrying one, and the reasons I most frequently use one on a climb might surprise you.
What is This Warning for my GriGri Belay Device, and Why Should I Care?)
Our Petzl GriGri belay device instructions warn against using HMS carabiners for fear that they become cross-loaded. But we're not concerned about the forces breaking the carabiner, device, or harness belay loop. We are concerned about hindering the camming action.
Sidestepping Downhill Will SAVE Your Quadriceps
Descending from mountain summits can feel like an endless set of steps that can greatly fatigue our quadriceps (thigh muscles) above the knee. By switching up our plane of motion, we can recruit other muscle groups to help give our quadriceps a break.
Protect Your Following Climber on a Traverse Crux with This Important Tip
Traversing pitches bring risks that more vertical climbing does not. As a lead climber on a traversing pitch, we need to think not only about protecting ourselves on the crux but our follower, as well, and we each have different needs for gear placements.
How To Tie A Barrel Knot For Safer Climbing
When we want to close our rope system, which is something we should do when rappelling or belaying - along with other circumstances, we often will choose a barrel knot. Here is how we tie one and some potential mistakes to avoid.
Can I Make a Climbing Harness With Just a Rope?
I was asked to demonstrate making a climbing harness using only the rope while ensuring it had leg loops. So, here it is.
Should You Add a Stopper Knot to Your Figure 8 Retrace?
Do we need to add a stopper knot when we tie into the climbing rope with a figure eight retrace knot? Does it help? Could it be harmful in any way? Let's find out.
How Does the Swiss Miss Rope Trick Work?
When we are trying to move fast over moderate terrain, rope management can often be the difference in speed. So, when we need to bring two end roped climbers closer together to avoid rope dragging over loose ground or around corners of winding terrain, this technique is about the fastest way possible to shorten that rope.
Reinforced Haul Loops and Leashing Our Pack for Glacier Travel
Historically, glacier travel in route to a climb involved reinforcing our packs and using ropes or leashes to ensure we could remove our pack from our shoulders should we need to extract ourselves from a crevasse fall. That is no longer done the same way. What's changed?
6mm Cord for Your Chalk Bag Strap May Just SAVE You
A non-rated webbing is what comes with most chalk bags. But we can replace that flimsy webbing with a more robust cord that still functions for its main purpose, keeping our chalk bag attached to us, while also providing material we can use to facilitate an escape from a route, should we ever need it.
What Happens When Your Climbing Rope Gets CORE SHOT
How can you tell when your climbing rope is core shot? And if it is core shot, what can we do about it? Let's look at a core shot rope, study its properties compared to a healthy rope, and talk about how to manage the rope both in the field and once we get it back home.
A Contradiction at the HEART of Climbing
As part of our Mental Health Awareness Month Series, every May we put out videos about some of climbing's mental aspects. This week, we talk about carrying the contradictory thoughts in our head that we can dream to accomplish incredibly difficult things but also need to be pragmatic and realistic about our shortcomings.
Humility, Vanity, and Their Impact on Climbing SAFETY
As part of our Mental Health Awareness Month Series, every May we put out videos about some of climbing's mental aspects. There is somewhere a line between pushing ourselves to our limits and pushing ourselves past them to the point of risking injury or worse. If we have the humility to prioritize our long-term interests over the short-term send, we may find we eventually get both the send and those longer-term joys we might otherwise compromise.
Why Do Climbers Take HUGE Risks? It's More Than a Philosophical Question
As part of our Mental Health Awareness Month Series, every May we put out videos about some of climbing's mental aspects. Understanding our climbing motivations is more than a philosophical exercise. It has very real implications for how our climbing team makes group decisions.
Avoid the Expert Halo for SAFER Climbing
As part of our Mental Health Awareness Month Series, every May we put out videos about some of climbing's mental aspects. When we unthinkingly defer to the most experienced, or expert, in our group, we increase our risks by not using multiple people's differing views to identify risks, by not gaining multiple perspectives on risk mitigation, or both.
A Route Plan is MORE than Just a Map. It's Mental Flexibility
When we head out into the backcountry for a climb, hike, or backpacking trip, having a sense of the surrounding topography can prove essential. Beyond having devices and apps, taking the time to plot out routes and familiarize ourselves with area maps creates the mental images we need to make decisions on the fly when things get complicated.
EASILY Deploy Your Climbing Cord with the Weave Wrap
Long cord can tangle, be difficult to deploy, or even trip us if racked poorly on our climbing harness. Here's how the weave wrap can keep long cord stored compactly, stay tangle free, and remain deployable with one hand.