All blogs

Every full length (longer than 60 seconds) video and accompanying blog post

Climbing Gear, Technical Climbing Gear Jason Kolaczkowski Climbing Gear, Technical Climbing Gear Jason Kolaczkowski

Climbers Get This Wrong About Rope Specifications

Climbing rope manufacturers publish a lot of numbers that describe how the rope will perform out in the field. But the numbers don't actually tell as straight forward of a story as we may wish. Here's how we interpret those numbers and how they tell a story about the types of climbing risks one rope may mitigate better than another.

Read More
How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski

Crevasse Rescue: Micro Traxion Lower Technique

Adding on to our videos about crevasse rescue, we could have a situation where we set up a haul only to discover, after making contact with the victim, that we actually need to lower them, as there is a walk out possible from lower in the crevasse. Well, if we have a pully-and-cam based progress capture like a Petzl Micro Traxion already set up, we need to switch from raise to lower, and there could be some complications we need to consider.

Read More
Family Dynamics Jason Kolaczkowski Family Dynamics Jason Kolaczkowski

Specialized vs Versatile Gear

There are times on our climbs when we want the exact right tool for the job, squeezing the maximum amount of efficiency out of the gear as applied to the situation for which it was specifically designed. There are times we want a more general piece of gear that can be used in lots of ways even if it isn't ideal for any one particular situation. And then there are times we need to diversify gear for the unknown. Let's get into all three of these strategies.

Read More
Family Dynamics Jason Kolaczkowski Family Dynamics Jason Kolaczkowski

One System vs Many: The Climbing Risk We're Not Seeing

One of the foundational choices climbers make is how they want to approach systems proficiency. Do we master a few systems, knowing they won't be perfect for every situation but will be good enough, or do we learn many systems knowing the need to practice that broader set could lead to unforced errors when it comes time to apply those systems. There are other tradeoffs, too, of which we should be aware.

Read More
Family Dynamics, How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski Family Dynamics, How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski

Empathy or Stagnation? How We Learn From Climbing Failures

Like many things in life, the extremes often don't serve us or the community around us. When we are confronted with the emotional tension at the heart of climbing and adventure sports accidents, neither ridicule nor disengagement allows us to learn. Empathy is the path forward, as it allows for curiosity which, in turn, allows for learning.

Read More
Family Dynamics, How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski Family Dynamics, How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski

Can You Risk It and Still Last?

In a sport like climbing, and maybe particularly with alpine climbing and mountaineering with their long histories of rebellious individualism, it is somehow still easy to get trapped into others' definitions of success. If we have the courage to carve out our own definition of success, then maybe we can escape the potential trap of ever-contracting safety margins.

Read More
How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski

The Most Dangerous Place to Cook on the Mountain

When we get into challenging climbing in mountain environments space, weather, and other constraints might necessitate that we get our calories in while in the relatively secure confines of our camping tent. How can we do that given all the risks that come from cooking with a camp stove when enclosed? Well, here's what you should never do.

Read More

DIY Hanging Kit for Your Camping Stove

Most commercial hanging kits for camping, backpacking, and climbing stoves are minimalist and light. They can be because they typically fit integrated stoves - where the stove and pot couple securely. This improves safety by containing the flame and creating stability. Can we design a hanging kit for a non-integrated stove that will bring us a similar safety profile?

Read More

Camping Stove Survival Test | Cold Weather Breakdown

Integrated stoves for camping, backpacking, and climbing transfer heat very effectively, reducing fuel demands. But the integrated stove and pot are often heavy. There are people who prefer lighter backpacking stoves, but to make alpine-ready hanging kits, they often need a heavier and more robust design to transfer heat and keep open flames away from gear. So, I ran a test on some store-bought integrated stoves with hanging kits, and some DIY hanging kits with backpacking stoves to see where the weight and performance tradeoffs may end up.

Read More
How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski

Self Arrest Technique Without an Ice Axe

Self arrest is a very necessary climbing skill if we are on moderate angled snow slopes like snow-filled gullies, or couloirs, or ridge walks above sloping mountain faces. That technique, at its best, demands proper use of an ice axe, but if we don't have or have dropped our axe, we shouldn't just give up. As a last-ditch effort to avoid having a slip become a fall, here are three techniques that don't require an ice axe.

Read More
How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski

How I Trained to Climb Over 15,000 Feet!

Climbing at three miles (4800 meters) above sea level can be a challenge for out body's physiology. Having access to almost as high of peaks in Colorado, here is how I spent the final month before my trip to that three-mile altitude to ensure I showed up pre-acclimatized to the altitude along with a discussion about why intermittent trips up to altitude can still help acclimatization.

Read More
Clothes Shoes and Accessories Jason Kolaczkowski Clothes Shoes and Accessories Jason Kolaczkowski

Protecting Against the Secret Danger of a High Altitude Climb

High altitude peaks bring many hazards, from rock fall to avalanches to seracs to crevasses, and many people would count weather among those. But when we think about weather, we are often concerned about storms and cold. Well, the cloudless days with perfect weather bring UV rays and sun damage that are way more significant than we experience at the altitudes at which we live.

Read More
How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski

Should You Link Climbing Pitches Together?

I've linked many a short set of climbing pitches into a longer pitch. But I don't always do it. The idea that having to only set up one belay and therefore one belay transition will speed up our climbing doesn't account for a host or reasons why speed might not be the ultimate consideration. Here are some things I consider before I decide to link two pitches together.

Read More
How-To (08), Family Dynamics Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (08), Family Dynamics Jason Kolaczkowski

Getting Ready for a Big Climbing Adventure? Don't Skip This Training!

When getting ready for a big climb, we work on cardio fitness, we work on strength, we work on technique. But, if the climbing is really pushing our comfort zone, are we going to be able to get into and out of our systems when we are exhausted and stressed? Does practicing systems play a role in training? New climbers and those going on expedition often will, but is there room for say-to-day upkeep of critical system skills?

Read More
How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski

3 Ways to Escape a Climbing Belay on Moderate Terrain

When moving quickly through moderate terrain, we might be using the rope but not be using standard climbing anchors. When we aren't pitching it out, we can still have a climbing fall that might require us to escape the belay in order to hold our partner in place while we render aid. How can we do that when we are using terrain or body belays? Well, the principles of any belay escape still apply.

Read More
How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski

Eight Lessons to Help New Climbers Climb a Snow Couloir Safely

This last spring and summer, my kids finally had the experience, technique, and the physical size to utilize appropriate equipment that allowed them to climb steeper couloirs - snow gullies - safely. But those things are only part of the equation. Being aware of different risks and mitigation tactics are necessary, as well. So, here are eight tips that helped us, and may help any other new climbers, approach snow climbing season with care.

Read More
How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski

Can You Block Lead from a Climbing Rope Anchor?

There are occasions when we may want to use the climbing rope as the soft good in our climbing anchor. And there are occasions when we might want the same lead climber to climb multiple pitches in a row (block leading). What happens when we want to do both? How do we overcome having the rope we need to take up with us being used in the anchor that is keeping us safe?

Read More
How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski

Why Do Climbers Trust This Simple Knot?

The Flat Overhand Bend, also called the Offset Overhand Bend, has gotten a bit of a bad reputation, sometimes being called the European Death Knot. But reputable organizations, like the American Mountain Guides Association, actually recommend this knot for double-strand rappels. So, what are the pros and cons of this knot, how do we tie it, when can we use it, and for what applications might it not be as good of choice?

Read More