Team of Three Climbing: Single vs. Half vs. Twin Ropes

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We make a lot of things redundant in climbing situations. We tie in to our harness through two hard points. We make sure our anchor has at least two points (often three if climbing trad). We rappel with a primary device and a backup friction hitch. We lower a climber using the same.

But in almost all of our systems, the rope is not redundant. If the rope should cut or fail in any other way, things are likely to go very, very badly.

Given that our rope is often both the core of our safety system as well as often devoid of any backup, it seems like we should spend at least as much time considering our rope and it’s appropriateness to a climb as we do other equipment for which we often have a redundant system.

Yes, ropes can be used redundantly, too, such as a team of two climbing on twin ropes, but it doesn’t happen that often. Should it?

If we want full redundancy in our rope or not is kind of the extreme end of a continuum in which we consider just how likely our rope is to fail given the various hazards of our climb. Sharp edged rock with traversing routes that would create pendulum falls? Well, that’s a magic recipe for a rope getting cut, so maybe a redundant system is worth it. Sport climbing an overhanging, difficult route? Lack of cutting or abrasion risk along with the need for simple clipping mechanics means a single rope is typically our go-to.

But what if we are climbing as a team of three? We usually have some sort of redundant system for the leader but often not for the followers (although we could). So, what are the risk factors that go into deciding if enough safety margin is there to bring up our two followers on individual ropes? Well, a mental model of considerations is a good starting point, and that’s what this video offers.