The Rope Team Mistake That Kills Climbers

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This video might be on a topic that seems self-evident. We are basically saying that if you don’t have risks of truly vertical falls, either into a crevasse or due to vertical or nearly vertical climbing, then we likely don’t need a rope tied between climbers because a fall by one may create a fall for many.

Duh… I guess.

But the reality is that many climbing teams don’t always notice or assess how the changes in circumstances that make one climbing system or setup no longer helpful… or maybe even harmful. Do you need to be roped up, still, after the crevasse danger has passed? How many rope teams climb up the chossy rock section of Disappointment Cleaver on Mount Rainier, still roped together, now tugging each other off balance and having the rope dislodge loose rocks?

Often what I hear is, “…but we’re just going to rope back up, again, in soon, as we exit the rock section and move back onto crevassed glacier.” Well, get good at getting into an out of systems, and it no longer becomes a choice between efficiency and safety rather it becomes a now brainer: added safety (which helps us climb more efficiently) with minimal time spent transitioning from system to system.

Another example of this might be the decision to put on crampons (or other traction) or not… or get out the ice axe or not… once a snow slope starts shifting from easy and mostly flat to moderate with a big of an angle. It may still be unlikely that we fall, but if we stowed our axe right or know how to get into and out of our crampons fast, is it worth not using one or both system additions? I have no problem if the answer is “still not worth it.” Maybe the individual is really accomplished at snow climbing, and is very likely to remain upright, regardless. What I do care about is having the internal dialog and making a conscious decision.

So, it might make sense to stay roped together as the team travels the 20 meters of a snow slope that is otherwise devoid of dangers. But was it a conscious decision? Did they have a discussion?

…or did they just not notice??

On a side note, if you are interested in the excellent boot The Mountain Guide Manual for more on snow, ice, and rock climbing safety considerations and procedures, follow the previous link for purchase.