All blogs
Every full length (longer than 60 seconds) video and accompanying blog post
Specialized vs Versatile Gear
There are times on our climbs when we want the exact right tool for the job, squeezing the maximum amount of efficiency out of the gear as applied to the situation for which it was specifically designed. There are times we want a more general piece of gear that can be used in lots of ways even if it isn't ideal for any one particular situation. And then there are times we need to diversify gear for the unknown. Let's get into all three of these strategies.
One System vs Many: The Climbing Risk We're Not Seeing
One of the foundational choices climbers make is how they want to approach systems proficiency. Do we master a few systems, knowing they won't be perfect for every situation but will be good enough, or do we learn many systems knowing the need to practice that broader set could lead to unforced errors when it comes time to apply those systems. There are other tradeoffs, too, of which we should be aware.
Empathy or Stagnation? How We Learn From Climbing Failures
Like many things in life, the extremes often don't serve us or the community around us. When we are confronted with the emotional tension at the heart of climbing and adventure sports accidents, neither ridicule nor disengagement allows us to learn. Empathy is the path forward, as it allows for curiosity which, in turn, allows for learning.
Can You Risk It and Still Last?
In a sport like climbing, and maybe particularly with alpine climbing and mountaineering with their long histories of rebellious individualism, it is somehow still easy to get trapped into others' definitions of success. If we have the courage to carve out our own definition of success, then maybe we can escape the potential trap of ever-contracting safety margins.
Self Arrest Technique Without an Ice Axe
Self arrest is a very necessary climbing skill if we are on moderate angled snow slopes like snow-filled gullies, or couloirs, or ridge walks above sloping mountain faces. That technique, at its best, demands proper use of an ice axe, but if we don't have or have dropped our axe, we shouldn't just give up. As a last-ditch effort to avoid having a slip become a fall, here are three techniques that don't require an ice axe.
The One Axe Difference on Snowy Terrain
If we decide that end roping may be the right method for taking on moderately technical snow terrain on a climb, we may want to pack one axe more than we have climbers. It offers up some flexibility in deploying our end roping system. Here's why and how.
Snow Climbing: Rope Choices That Save Lives
When we are climbing on snow or a glacier, we may have to consider rope systems for both crevasse falls and the more standard falls that simply come from difficult climbing moves. Factor in maintaining a pace that can get us to the summit and back before conditions deteriorate, and we have a lot to consider. Here is how I begin to approach that complexity.
The Rope Team Mistake That Kills Climbers
When we cross crevassed terrain, we often rope together to allow us, as a team, to catch a fall of a teammate. But that same strategy of being roped together might compound risk, not reduce it, if we use it on standard snow slopes. Let's talk about why and what choices we might make to alter our safety systems for the better.
FDA's Surprise Frostbite Approval | The Numbers Are Shocking
A drug that has been used for years to treat pulmonary hypertension has also been used for years in Canada and Europe to help with frostbite. Well, the FDA fairly recently approved its use in the United States, so let's talk about what evidence we have to support its use as well as some of the shortcomings of the supporting studies.
Is This Backpack Really Worth It?
After one year of use and one big expedition in Asia, I've learned enough about the Samaya Ultra 60 pack. Here's what I've found to be the pros and cons along with a few modifications I've made to my pack.
Can Your Climbing Trip Plan Save Your Life?
A trip plan can keep you and your climbing partners on the same page but also can help your loved ones deal with any emergencies that might arise. So, what can we put in our trip plans to ensure we meet these needs?
What Happens to Your Body When You Climb Truly TALL Peaks
Whether going from sea level to moderate altitude or from moderate altitude to high altitude, our bodies need time - and water - to adjust and adapt to the reduced oxygen we will take in. This video gives an overview of the physiology, the potential illnesses, and the preventative tactics that all come into play when we experience significant altitude changes.
Using Close Call Assessments to Make Climbing SAFER
Every May, we make videos on the mental side of climbing and adventure in recognition of National Mental Health Awareness Month. This video talks about close call assessments, discussing what they are, who uses them, how they can make our climbing safer, and walks through a low-effort way we can apply them to our own climbing.
Understanding The Difference Between RISKS and DANGERS in Climbing and Life
Every May, we make videos on the mental side of climbing and adventure in recognition of National Mental Health Awareness Month. This week, we are getting into a question I was asked about how I view risks verses dangers in climbing. Drawing heavily from my upbringing, I get into the importance of differentiating between risks, dangers, probabilities, and consequences and then apply those concepts to help us better mitigate risks.
Balancing Work, Family, And Climbing Is A BIG Challenge
Every May, we make videos on the mental side of climbing and adventure in recognition of National Mental Health Awareness Month. This week, we are going deeper into a subscriber's question about how I balance climbing, video creation, work, family, all of it along with how the goal of balance affects what and when and how I climb.
ULOCKING Your Alpine Climbing Performance Through Empowerment
Every May, we make videos on the mental side of climbing and adventure in recognition of National Mental Health Awareness Month. In this video, we discuss how shared decision making creates empowerment which, in turn, improves team performance and our enjoyment of the mountains.
Keep Your Drinking Water from FREEZING! Practices from High Altitude Climbing
Depending upon your part of the world, winter climbing can bring extreme cold that can make the seemingly simplest things complicated. I got asked a question about how we stop our drinking water from freezing when temperatures dip into the extreme. We can borrow lessons from many high altitude climbers who regularly face those types of extreme temperatures.
Revisited: a Short "Movie" of a Family Camping and Climbing Trip
Four years into our channel, the boys and I made a full-circle trip to the location where we filmed our very first video. Like any full-circle event, it prompted some reflection on how far we’ve come as a family, how much the boys have grown and matured, and how I’ve come to live with some personal struggles. We’ve made a short video that celebrates this trip that was four years in the making.
My Crampons Don't Fit! Small Boots Make Crampon Toes Loose but We Have Options
I’m not a big man. I’m 5’ 6” or a little less than 1.5 meters tall. I weigh about 140 pounds or less than 65 kilograms. While that is good for not having to take a lot of bulk up alpine objectives, it does mean that fitting into equipment can be hard. The most troubling, for me, was getting my small boots to lock in at the toe of my crampons without having room to slide around from side to side. Here is a deeper dive into crampon toe attachment options for people with smaller boots.
What Type of Crampon's Do I Need? A Guide to Front Points for New Winter Climbers
Each new climbing season brings with it a group of climbers who are new to climbing in that season. And now it is winter. It's always someone's first time peak bagging through the snow drifts after years of dry-weather hiking. It's always someone's first time on ice. It's always someone's climb up that choss-filled gully that is now covered in an inviting blanket of consolidated snow. These new winter climbers probably have equipment questions, and the one I get the most is about why the different front-point styles for crampons? Well, let's get into it.