Getting Ready for a Big Climbing Adventure? Don't Skip This Training!
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The needs to practice our systems varies from stage to stage in our climbing career. In this video, I basically call out three circumstances when we should spend time practicing systems (such as building anchors or using rope on moderate terrain or working on rescue systems). But the catch is that I believe we are always in one of these circumstances:
First, we might be new climbers. If we are new, we want to make sure that our systems are sound. Do we tie our knots correctly? Do we build our anchor soundly? Do we select the right system to build in the first place?
And then there is the issue of speed. As the saying goes, “speed is safety.” That doesn’t mean rushing. It means that the longer we stay in a risky environment, the more the odds of something bad happening increase. If we stay on the cliffside, eventually a rock might come tumbling down or the weather might role in or the fatigue might become problematic. So, can we get into and out of our systems efficiently?
Second, we might be going on an expedition. This usually means going on something that is going to be a particular challenge to us and with a partner or whole team who will share in the risk taking and risk mitigation activities that make up every set of climbs. I often see expedition teams practicing safety or rescue systems together. This is really about getting on the same page. Are we going to start the crevasse rescue system the same way because we all agree on the system we are going to build? Are we going to climbing with twin ropes or single ropes? Are we going to use particular rope fixing tactics (like fix and follow) or will we belay each and every climbed pitch?
Third, we are an experienced climber not getting ready for an expedition; we are just doing our usual climbing at our local crag or crags… more on this in a second.
Well, being a new climber is a transient state, as is preparing for expedition. We are not always going to be needing to purposefully be practicing basic knots and anchors. Eventually, they become second nature. We aren’t always going on expedition and needing to ensure coordination across the team. So, we are left with the third options which is, basically, every time we aren’t one of the other two. So, the question is really what do we need to practice in those day-to-day moments?
I argue, and the video argues, our self- and team-rescue systems that align with our usual style of climbing. The thing about rescues is that we don’t use them much (unless we are on a search-and-rescue team). So, those procedures can go stale in our minds, leading to mistakes and - maybe just as bad when we consider emergencies - inefficiencies that cost us time. So, when we aren’t a new climber or getting ready for an expedition, are we confident in our ability to deal with the rare, unexpected, and stressful events that can come on any climbing day?