In many parts of the world, tethering our rappel device and extending it away from us has become the norm. In other parts of the world, it is not. So, let's take a look at the pros and cons of extending a rappel device to dig behind those differences.

Our hard climbing goods get worn. Belay devices are no exception. And one type of wear, like from rappelling, can not only affect that same technique but can impact other techniques, like belaying.

A disagreement about if extending a rappel device away from us while on rappel makes it easier to hold ourselves up while wearing a heavy pack moved into a discussion about pivot points and centers of mass, and it got me thinking more deeply about this question. So I set up a test. See the full video to go deeper into the result and the physics.

This is not a typical use case for the bunny ears knot, but using it in such a way can help reduce a major risk that comes with tethering ourselves to an anchor with static material. Now we can easily adjust and take all of the slack out of that thether, avoiding dynamic falls onto a static runner that tests show can actually break those runners.

Another discussion that seems to get climbers strangely combative is the decision to clove hitch into an anchor or to use a personal anchor system, or PAS. Well, like most things, there are tradeoffs. Dynamic properties to shock absorb fall loads might be a consideration. The full video gets into additional tradeoffs.

One of the more ubiquitous pieces of climbing gear is the quickdraw. It’s a handy tool, and there is a lot more we can do with it than just clip our rope to the protection.

Climbers seem to get overly heated up when talking about things like using the rope to make our anchors or using slings, runners, or cords. Well, like most things, there are tradeoffs. Here's one set of those tradeoffs, and the full video goes deeper into several others.

If we have built a standard “Z” haul system with 3:1 mechanical advantage, we can quickly convert it to a 6:1 system by adding a “C” loop to the “Z” haul. Here’s how to do it along with some of the pros and cons of the system.

When we build a climbing haul system, we will not be able to escape at least some friction in that system. A major point of friction will be at the progress capture connection, which helps hold the load strand so that we don't accidentally let back out any of the rope we've hauled in. One system I was taught to help reduce friction may actually create more. The video compares nine different systems for efficiency.

Sometimes in the middle of a haul, we need a little extra mechanical advantage to get past a difficult section of that haul. Here’s one way to quickly convert a 3-to-1 system to a 5-to-1 system. Given the number of resets a long haul would require for this setup, it might be best used for only those three feet (about 1 meter) of hauling where we need that extra assistance.

There's a lot to think about when we are parents with climbing kids or are transitioning from being a climber who is looked after to one who is looking after others. One of the key activities we do in these roles is setting top rope anchors. So, here's one way I make sure the anchor will keep the climbers safe when climbing. The full video deals with the anchor setter's safety, as well.

I use the bowline knot in lost of circumstances: making anchor points around fixed objects (like trees), making anchors for bolted or trad routes when I want to make sure I can untie the material easily, and even as a rappel extension. Here are two ways I tie the knot based on circumstances.

There are times we want to tie off a belay to keep our climber temporarily safe as we go hands free. Here is one method, often seen in the UK, as a preview to a video with four different methods for tying off a tube-style plaquette device along with how those methods compare across certain scenarios.

Going through both a mental and physical safety check before setting off on a rappel can help mitigate against the risks we face during one of the more accident-prone elements of climbing. Here's how I was taught to do it.

Icy climbing ropes. Thin ropes. Extra weight on the rappel. There are multiple reasons why we might want to add additional friction into our rappel (abseil) system. Here is one option for when we are rappelling on a plaquette (tube-style with guide mode option) device. The full video offers two more options.

If we have to ascend our climbing rope, and there are multiple reasons why this might be the case, our foot loop can easily come loose forcing us to waste time and energy continually rewrapping it around our foot. Well, a simple girth hitch can fix that problem

One of the standard rescue procedures in a single pitch scenario is the pick off, and it begins with the belayer ascending the belay strand to meet the climber that is on the wall. Once we get to the climber, potentially their size and their injuries might dictate how to position them as we head down. Here is one of three options.

If we have to ascend our climbing rope, and there are multiple reasons why this might be the case, a clever rope trick that is very simple to do, can greatly increase the efficiency of our ascent. 

One of the standard rescue procedures in a single pitch scenario is the pick off, and it begins with the belayer ascending the belay strand to meet the climber that is on the wall. Well, when we have a significantly lighter climber than we have a belayer, that ascension cannot happen. So, if we put in separate, fixed rope, here's how to transfer the climber to this fixed line.

The Petzl Micro Traxion and the Edelrid Spoc are comparable progress capture devices with integrated pulleys and cams with teeth that clamp down on the rope. Here's a quick compare and contrast for those trying to decide between the two devices.

One of the standard rescue procedures in a single pitch scenario is the pick off, and it begins with the belayer ascending the belay strand to meet the climber that is on the wall. Well, when we have a significantly lighter climber than we have a belayer, that ascension cannot happen. The full video uses this Munter-mule-overhand knot a couple times within an alternative procedure that frees us from the belay so that we can get help or get another rope in place to get us to our climber in need.

Blue Ice makes an eye-to-eye runner in multiple lengths that can be used in many situations where we would use a sling. One potential use is as an alpine draw. We will end up with a draw that is easier to use and more stable to clip but which does have a slightly more limited set of extending options.

One of the standard rescue procedures in a single pitch scenario is the pick off, and it begins with the belayer ascending the belay strand to meet the climber that is on the wall. Well, when we have a significantly lighter climber than we have a belayer, that ascension cannot happen. The full video goes deep on how we can identify if we will have an issue.

Ben Zartman, life long climber and a sailor, combined his knowledge of both disciplines to produce technically superior friction hitch loops that bite, are abrasion resistant, and can withstand significant forces.

In a single pitch scenario, with a belay coming from the ground either to a leader or a top roping climber, we can still end up with an injured climber on the wall who needs medical attention or assistance getting down. The pick off gets us up to the climber and gets both of us back down again. Here is the process for getting ready to ascend on a plaquette device, and the full video gets into full the rescue and lowering procedure.

Ben Zartman, life long climber and a sailor, combined his knowledge of both disciplines to produce technically superior slings that don't have a sewn bar tack that gets in the way of our knots.

Ben Zartman, life long climber and a sailor, combined his knowledge of both disciplines to produce technically superior slings that don't have a sewn bar tack that gets in the way of our knots.

In a single pitch scenario, with a belay coming from the ground either to a leader or a top roping climber, we can still end up with an injured climber on the wall who needs medical attention or assistance getting down. The pick off gets us up to the climber and gets both of us back down again. Here is ascending on a Grigri, and the full video gets into the rescue and lowering procedure.

If we aren't performing a more typical double-strand rappel but rather are rappelling on a joined rope but using a single strand, we may want an alternative to the flat overhand bend which provides superior strength and resists rolling. The stacked overhand does both. Here’s its comparative strength and a tutorial for tying it.