High-altitude First Ascensionist Taught Me this Improvised Aid Climbing Technique

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When it comes to the physical difficulty of particular climbing moves, I’m not a great climber. Yes, I’m better on ice and mixed than I am on rock, but I’m not a world-beater at any of it. Part of that is because I’m getting older. Part of that is because I came to climbing relatively late and after injury stopped me from participating in my previous team sports. And speaking of injury, besides the three ACL reconstructions on my right knee, I am asthmatic, have blood cancer, and am (now) pushing 50 years old. But the largest part is that I simply don’t put in the training time that is necessary to get my injured and aging body to perform at elite levels.

I own that choice. And it is a choice. Sure, it may seem an obvious one in that I have a family and a full time job and a symbiotic responsibility to both of those things, but it’s a choice nonetheless.

I am, however, a pretty good high-altitude climber, by amateur standards. I’ve done some big peaks without guides and/or commercial support. For all of my physical limitations, I have an advantage in this genre of climbing in that my body seems to acclimate well.

Around all of this, though, is the reality that the type of climbing I enjoy most - exploratory (not necessary known routes) and alpine brings a larger amount of uncertainty to the climbs. Given my limited abilities, that means I could (and have) run into sections of a climb that are too physically difficult for me to get up. The more complex the environment gets - think, mixed high-altitude, the more likely that becomes.

So, this aid sequence was something my climbing guide/mentor of many years was very intentional about imparting to me. This is a pathway to help me deal with the uncertainties I described, above. Sure, I need to be honest with my climbing community when I start pulling on or stepping up to gear, but if it means the difference between an ascent or a bail, I’m happy to keep going.

While it’s not the best “style,” if it’s the best style I can manage for a route, then I’m happy to use it in the moment, for both the safety it can provide (bails can get complicated in a hurry) and the enjoyment it can bring - as it’s fulfilling to be confronted with a challenge and to improvise a solution.