Surviving A Crevasse Fall Requires Knowing What To Do NEXT

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I try to be responsive to subscriber’s questions either through a thoughtful reply or through an entirely new video. I can’t always do the “entirely new video.” Sometimes I already have a production scheduled planned too far out. Sometimes I can’t think of a good way to organize and shoot a video. For instance, I got asked about showing how to manage crevasse falls when hauling a sled. Part of what makes that scenario so complicated is a) having two walls of the crevasse, and b) having a sled often times wedged above the fallen climber. I get stuck with Colorado not really having crevasses; I use cornices to simulate. That removes the wedge effect. And having a heavy sled over a climber would require some rigging to ensure it is more of a prop than an unnecessary safety hazard.

That being said, both reasons why I don’t necessary make a video are temporary. Eventually, I work my way through my production schedule. Most logistical filming problems can be solved with enough forethought.

All that being said, I have found myself referencing earlier videos in my recent videos a heck of a lot more. I chalk that up to two things. First, I simply have enough material out there, now, that many questions have already been addressed; so, when I make a new video, it really is the continuation of a subject - like this video is in relation to ascending a rope, more generally. Second, I actually do get a reasonable amount of discussion in the comments section on YouTube as well as get some private messages. I am very grateful for that. Sure, it gives me lots of fodder for planning new videos. It’s nice to have another pipeline of ideas. But, more so, I like the discussion. I think it’s helpful for continuous learning.

If you’ve been following this channel for long enough, you know that I kind of bristle against the “one size fits all” type of certainty that many educational and advice creators generate. I find it arrogant, first, and I also find it wrong. Context and nuance are not the enemy when life-changing or life-ending accidents could happen from a misapplied technique.

I believe every tool and technique we have in climbing has both strengths and weaknesses. Part of the fun of it all, for me, is working to apply the right technique to the right circumstance in order to best mitigate the risks that particular circumstance is presenting.

Any type of crevasse rescue circumstance is highly contextual. The most efficient path to safety could range from a lower to a haul to a climb to - as in the case this video posits - a rope ascension. There might be injuries to deal with, or not. There might we weather, or not. There might be others around, or not. Then there is available equipment and snow/ice conditions. I could go on and on and on.

That is why it is so satisfying that a handful of people are taking the time to comment, ask questions of me, ask questions of each other, and provide alternative recommendations. Ultimately, this is a learning community, and we can’t learn if we are pretending we have provided the one and only answer.