Short clips
Trailers to full length videos and stand-alone quick tips; everything we make that is under 60 seconds
Secure Your Belay: Mule Overhand Tie-Off Technique
There are times we want to tie off a belay to keep our climber temporarily safe as we go hands free. Here is one method that may be easier to use if the spine of our belay carabiner is hard to see given the position of our device, the rope, or ourselves. It's one method as a preview to a video with four different methods for tying off a tube-style plaquette device along with how those methods compare across certain scenarios.
This Haul System Efficiency Hack May Harm More Than It Helps
When we build a climbing haul system, we will not be able to escape at least some friction in that system. A major point of friction will be at the progress capture connection, which helps hold the load strand so that we don't accidentally let back out any of the rope we've hauled in. One system I was taught to help reduce friction may actually create more. The video compares nine different systems for efficiency.
Haul Heavy Loads Easier with This 5:1 Trick
Sometimes in the middle of a haul, we need a little extra mechanical advantage to get past a difficult section of that haul. Here’s one way to quickly convert a 3-to-1 system to a 5-to-1 system. Given the number of resets a long haul would require for this setup, it might be best used for only those three feet (about 1 meter) of hauling where we need that extra assistance.
Building a Top Rope Anchor for Multiple Climbs
There's a lot to think about when we are parents with climbing kids or are transitioning from being a climber who is looked after to one who is looking after others. One of the key activities we do in these roles is setting top rope anchors. So, here's one way I make sure the anchor will keep the climbers safe when climbing. The full video deals with the anchor setter's safety, as well.
Bowline Knot Two Ways
I use the bowline knot in lost of circumstances: making anchor points around fixed objects (like trees), making anchors for bolted or trad routes when I want to make sure I can untie the material easily, and even as a rappel extension. Here are two ways I tie the knot based on circumstances.
Tying Off a Tube-Style Belay: a Typical UK Method
There are times we want to tie off a belay to keep our climber temporarily safe as we go hands free. Here is one method, often seen in the UK, as a preview to a video with four different methods for tying off a tube-style plaquette device along with how those methods compare across certain scenarios.
Rappelling Without These Checks? Don't.
Going through both a mental and physical safety check before setting off on a rappel can help mitigate against the risks we face during one of the more accident-prone elements of climbing. Here's how I was taught to do it.
The Rappel Friction Setup Everyone Should Know
Icy climbing ropes. Thin ropes. Extra weight on the rappel. There are multiple reasons why we might want to add additional friction into our rappel (abseil) system. Here is one option for when we are rappelling on a plaquette (tube-style with guide mode option) device. The full video offers two more options.
Alter Our Foot Loop to Make Rope Ascension a Breeze
If we have to ascend our climbing rope, and there are multiple reasons why this might be the case, our foot loop can easily come loose forcing us to waste time and energy continually rewrapping it around our foot. Well, a simple girth hitch can fix that problem
Pick-Off Descent Technique That Saves Lives
One of the standard rescue procedures in a single pitch scenario is the pick off, and it begins with the belayer ascending the belay strand to meet the climber that is on the wall. Once we get to the climber, potentially their size and their injuries might dictate how to position them as we head down. Here is one of three options.
3-to-1 System for Rope Ascent
If we have to ascend our climbing rope, and there are multiple reasons why this might be the case, a clever rope trick that is very simple to do, can greatly increase the efficiency of our ascent.
Load Transfer Saves Lives on the Rope
One of the standard rescue procedures in a single pitch scenario is the pick off, and it begins with the belayer ascending the belay strand to meet the climber that is on the wall. Well, when we have a significantly lighter climber than we have a belayer, that ascension cannot happen. So, if we put in separate, fixed rope, here's how to transfer the climber to this fixed line.
Munter Mule Overhand Knot May Save A Life
One of the standard rescue procedures in a single pitch scenario is the pick off, and it begins with the belayer ascending the belay strand to meet the climber that is on the wall. Well, when we have a significantly lighter climber than we have a belayer, that ascension cannot happen. The full video uses this Munter-mule-overhand knot a couple times within an alternative procedure that frees us from the belay so that we can get help or get another rope in place to get us to our climber in need.
The Knot That Resists Rolling During Rappels
If we aren't performing a more typical double-strand rappel but rather are rappelling on a joined rope but using a single strand, we may want an alternative to the flat overhand bend which provides superior strength and resists rolling. The stacked overhand does both. Here’s its comparative strength and a tutorial for tying it.
A Knot Comparison to Consider
When we are no longer performing a more typical double-strand rappel when we have two ropes, we may want a rope joining knot that provides added strength and security when compared to the flat overhand bend. One such knot is the double overhand. Here’s a snapshot of how strong it is in comparison along with how to tie it.
Actual Rope Weight vs Official Specs
When we are buying a new rope, we may look at the grams per meter to compare the weight of one rope to another. But really we should be comparing the grams per meter in combination with the static elongation. Here's why, and it explains why weighing the rope at home always ends up with a heavier rope than the grams per meter would indicate.
Inside to Outside Clip on Lead, and on Rappel?
When we set a rappel strand, we want to ensure we can pull our rope cleanly, especially if on a multi-pitch climb where we need to perform many rappels. One of the things we can do to maximize a clean pull is think through how the rock features and the rappel points interact with our designated pull strand.
Master the Haul System Now
If we are hauling a bag or assisting a following climber, we might construct a 3-to-1 haul system at the anchor. If we find that isn't enough mechanical advantage for our haul, we can quickly convert that 3-to-1 system to a 5-to-1 system.
One Dimensional Thinking About Climbing Gear
Some climbers have a reflex to think of weight as simply bad. More weight equals more problems. But weight is a trade off. What do we gain from carrying the weight? If we think of weight as a cost for value, we may make better tradeoffs that serve us on our climbs while still avoiding "packing our fears."
Tactical vs Strategic Risks in Climbing
What are our climbing goals - not just the objectives but what we hope to get out of those climbs? Is what we gain worth the cost? I'm not saying don't climb; I climb a lot. But we ought to pause from time to time to ask if we are truly getting what we want out of the climbs we undertake. If not, we may be tactically sound but strategically at risk, meaning the costs we could incur may be higher than we should be willing to pay.