Short clips

Trailers to full length videos and stand-alone quick tips; everything we make that is under 60 seconds

Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski

Secure Your Belay: Mule Overhand Tie-Off Technique

There are times we want to tie off a belay to keep our climber temporarily safe as we go hands free. Here is one method that may be easier to use if the spine of our belay carabiner is hard to see given the position of our device, the rope, or ourselves. It's one method as a preview to a video with four different methods for tying off a tube-style plaquette device along with how those methods compare across certain scenarios.

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Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski

This Haul System Efficiency Hack May Harm More Than It Helps

When we build a climbing haul system, we will not be able to escape at least some friction in that system. A major point of friction will be at the progress capture connection, which helps hold the load strand so that we don't accidentally let back out any of the rope we've hauled in. One system I was taught to help reduce friction may actually create more. The video compares nine different systems for efficiency.

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Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski

Haul Heavy Loads Easier with This 5:1 Trick

Sometimes in the middle of a haul, we need a little extra mechanical advantage to get past a difficult section of that haul. Here’s one way to quickly convert a 3-to-1 system to a 5-to-1 system. Given the number of resets a long haul would require for this setup, it might be best used for only those three feet (about 1 meter) of hauling where we need that extra assistance.

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Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski

Building a Top Rope Anchor for Multiple Climbs

There's a lot to think about when we are parents with climbing kids or are transitioning from being a climber who is looked after to one who is looking after others. One of the key activities we do in these roles is setting top rope anchors. So, here's one way I make sure the anchor will keep the climbers safe when climbing. The full video deals with the anchor setter's safety, as well.

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Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski

Bowline Knot Two Ways

I use the bowline knot in lost of circumstances: making anchor points around fixed objects (like trees), making anchors for bolted or trad routes when I want to make sure I can untie the material easily, and even as a rappel extension. Here are two ways I tie the knot based on circumstances.

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Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski

Load Transfer Saves Lives on the Rope

One of the standard rescue procedures in a single pitch scenario is the pick off, and it begins with the belayer ascending the belay strand to meet the climber that is on the wall. Well, when we have a significantly lighter climber than we have a belayer, that ascension cannot happen. So, if we put in separate, fixed rope, here's how to transfer the climber to this fixed line.

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Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski

Munter Mule Overhand Knot May Save A Life

One of the standard rescue procedures in a single pitch scenario is the pick off, and it begins with the belayer ascending the belay strand to meet the climber that is on the wall. Well, when we have a significantly lighter climber than we have a belayer, that ascension cannot happen. The full video uses this Munter-mule-overhand knot a couple times within an alternative procedure that frees us from the belay so that we can get help or get another rope in place to get us to our climber in need.

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Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski

A Knot Comparison to Consider

When we are no longer performing a more typical double-strand rappel when we have two ropes, we may want a rope joining knot that provides added strength and security when compared to the flat overhand bend. One such knot is the double overhand. Here’s a snapshot of how strong it is in comparison along with how to tie it.

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Actual Rope Weight vs Official Specs

When we are buying a new rope, we may look at the grams per meter to compare the weight of one rope to another. But really we should be comparing the grams per meter in combination with the static elongation. Here's why, and it explains why weighing the rope at home always ends up with a heavier rope than the grams per meter would indicate.

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Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips, Quick Tips (10) Jason Kolaczkowski

Tactical vs Strategic Risks in Climbing

What are our climbing goals - not just the objectives but what we hope to get out of those climbs? Is what we gain worth the cost? I'm not saying don't climb; I climb a lot. But we ought to pause from time to time to ask if we are truly getting what we want out of the climbs we undertake. If not, we may be tactically sound but strategically at risk, meaning the costs we could incur may be higher than we should be willing to pay.

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