What You Need to Know to Avoid DEADLY Rockfall

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I’ve written, before, about the truth behind the disclaimer, “climbing is an inherently risky activity.” And I’ve done a whole video about complex environments being the most profound risk multiplier. In some ways, this video is an extension of that conversation. It’s premise is that when we go into undeveloped climbs, alpine climbs, and the unknown we are usually going into more complex environments. If we think about what “development” does - making outhouses, staking rocks to make safe belay stances, cleaning loose rock off of a route, adding navigable trails to the climb, etc. - we are removing complexity. The trail is easy to follow. The rocks aren’t falling from unseen heights, we don’t even need to worry about where to go to the bathroom. We’ve either eliminated or greatly reduced certain concerns because we’ve simplified - made easier - the process of doing “the right thing” to stay safe or keep our environment sanitary or whatever.

So, I started this video by saying (slightly differently, but the same point) that if we go into undeveloped places, we are going to see rockfall. And I mean the statement that strongly: not we “might,” rather we “will.”

Rockfall, like avalanches and cornices and melting ice and snow, is a complexity-adding element in the grand, environmental equation. So, I would argue that if you feel any kind of ethical responsibility to yourself and your loved ones - as well as potential rescuers who might otherwise need to get involved - then being able to assess and mitigate against rock gall danger is a responsible prerequisite for going to places where rockfall is possible.

Well, that only begs a couple of questions:

• How do I know if rockfall is likely? How do I know if I am going into one of those areas where I want to be responsibly knowledgeable?

• And if the whole point is to be able to go to those places, then what are my tactics for reducing my risk given these places have increased that risk, inherently?

Besides wearing a helmet, which is an obvious starting point…

… Oh, and if you care, I wear the Mammut Wall Rider MIPS because I can wear it all day without getting a headache, and my kids wear the the Black Diamond Tracer for the same reason…

… there is an bit of science and a bit of art to both assessing and mitigating rockfall risk. And, that is where the video comes in.

Rockfall is a danger, an “inherent” danger within the bounds of climbing in certain locations. Rockfall is a complexity, and like any complexity that puts us more at risk, I think we owe it to ourselves and others to understand that complexity so that we can balance against the risk.